12-day road trip in northern Greece

Feel the majesty of Ancient Delphi

Delphi is one of the most famous archaeological sites from antiquity. On the slopes of Mount Parnassos and overlooking the Pleistos Valley, it is also one of the most beautifully situated. From the 6^th century BC into Roman times, it became so famous that everyone from commoners to kings and emperors came to offer gifts to Apollo and other gods, and to hear Apollo’s words through the Oracle here, delivered by the High Priestess Pythia. Today, the UNESCO World Heritage Site includes the remains of the Temple of Apollo and the treasuries that housed visitors’ gifts, as well as an ancient stadium and theatre and the exhibits in the onsite museum.

Take a tour of Ancient Delphi

Explore charming Amfissa

The scenery changes again as you head to Amfissa, about 20km from Delphi. It has been continuously inhabited since antiquity and has a colourful history (as you’ll discover at the ruins of the Castle of Oria, built by the Franks and Catalans). The neighbourhood of Harmaina was once the leather-tanning district and Amfissa’s narrow streets are lined with stone houses as well as former tanneries, now converted into cafes, restaurants and other businesses. The Archaeological Museum of Amfissa features artefacts from the Fokida region of Greece, and the Museum of the Greek Revolution is housed in the 19^th-century home of revolutionary hero Dimitrios Panourgias. Mostly, though, you’re here to have lunch in a taverna or ouzerie or a drink in a traditional cafe or bar (especially around Kechagia Square).

Enjoy dinner in Kastraki

The first day of your itinerary in northern Greece ends in Kastraki, a peaceful village whose houses spread amphitheatrically below the gigantic Meteora rocks. Meaning ‘Small Castle’, Kastraki was established in the 16th century and is a popular place to stay for people visiting the Meteora monasteries and enjoying nature activities in the area. There’s a choice of traditional tavernas for dinner.

Enjoy a stroll or bike ride around Trikala

Trikala is a riverside city made for a leisurely stroll or bike ride. In the neighbourhood of Varousi, you’ll find the Byzantine Castle and Clock Tower and in Palia Manavika, you’ll pass stately homes. Meanwhile, Matsopoulos Park and Mill was the first flour and pasta-producing factory in Greece. Trikala’s Ancient Asclepion is believed to have been the very first sanctuary in ancient Greece dedicated to Asclepius, the god of healing, who was born in Trikka (modern-day Trikala). And the Koursoum Mosque is one of the best-preserved mosques in Greece. Meanwhile, the Tsitsanis Museum (in the building of the former Ottoman baths and, later, prison) pays homage to Vassilis Tsitsanis, one of the legendary folk musicians born in Trikala. The Folklore Museum displays everyday objects, costumes and more from the late 18th century. And a final recommendation is the Tsitsilis family winery & distillery just outside the city, which offers wine and tsipouro tastings.

Discover more about Trikala

Bonus tip: If you’re planning a family road trip around Christmas, the kids will love the Mill of the Elves theme park at Matsopoulos Mill

Visit the Church of the Holy Cross

Driving deeper into the forests of the Pindus mountains, you visit the Church of the Holy Cross near Aspropotamos, at an altitude of 1,150m and less than 2km from Doliana and Krania, two of the so-called Koutsovlach villages whose oldest inhabitants still speak the Vlach dialect. It is believed to have been an annexe to an 18th-century monastery (although the current structure is from the 19th century). What’s certain is that it has a different architecture from most Greek churches, including a three-aisled basilica with three semicircular arches on the east side and a 12-domed roof. You’re surrounded by some of the most beautiful countryside in Greece, but be careful as you drive as some of the roads in the area are dirt roads.

Delve into the history of Metsovo

Metsovo is another famous mountain settlement in Greece, built at an altitude of 1,000m and with a balcony view over the Pindus mountains. It is full of tradition and history, especially that of the great Greek benefactor Georgios Averoff who was born here and rebuilt the town when it was destroyed after an uprising against the Ottomans. You can visit the Averoff Museum of Neohellenic Art and the Metsovo Folk Art Museum and enjoy local products like metsovone (a hard, smoked cheese). There are plenty of activities to enjoy around Metsovo, such as kayaking on the Aoos River Lake. And around Metsovo is a 40km network of footpaths named the Ursa Trail, after the Vlach word for bear.

Discover all the things to do in Metsovo

Visit the Archaeological site of Dodoni

Around 20km from Ioannina is the archaeological site of Dodoni (or Dodona), which in mythology was considered the earthly residence of Zeus after Mount Olympus. A small temple to Zeus existed here in the 4th century BC but Dodoni flourished in the following century during the reign of King Pyrrhus, who stood up to Rome and turned Epirus into a powerful realm. Among the remains are the ancient Theatre of Dodoni and the stadium where the Naia Games (dedicated to Zeus) were held. The ancient playwright Euripides staged plays here and, in Roman times, the theatre was adapted to stage animal fights.

View the extraordinary Vikos Gorge

Heading north into the Zagori region of Epirus, you reach the Oxya Viewpoint, overlooking the narrowest point of the Vikos Gorge. One of the most dramatic landscapes in Greece, the Vikos Gorge is 12.5km long and follows the Voidomatis River running through the heart of the Vikos Aoos National Park (a UNESCO Global Geopark). If you need any encouragement to experience hiking through the Vikos Gorge now or in the future, this jaw-dropping view will convince you. There are guided walks that you can join. Or, you can simply enjoy the view from where you are.

Hike the spectacular Vikos Gorge

Enjoy the Epirote architecture of Monodendri

Very close to the Oxya Viewpoint, Monodendri is one of the best-known and most picturesque Zagori villages. In the narrow, cobbled streets, you’ll admire the stonework and architecture that are characteristic of all Zagori villages in Epirus. The square is the perfect setting for lunch or a coffee with a homemade sweet. Next to the square is the Rizarios Exhibition Center & Handcraft School in the Pantazis mansion, which hosts photography exhibitions and traditional crafts such as foot-powered weaving. You can also visit the ‘floating’ Monastery of Agia Paraskevi, built literally on the edge of the gorge around 800m from the village.

Discover all the unforgettable things to do in Zagori

Get close to nature at the Prespes Lakes

The high-altitude (2,300m) Prespes Lakes are shared by Greece, Albania and North Macedonia and form a national park protected by the Ramsar Convention for wetlands. Together, Mikri (Small) and Megali (Big) Prespa attract 275 bird species (160 breeding in the lakes) and other fauna, including 172 species of butterflies. The deeper Megali Prespa is rich in fish. Boat trips leave from the village of Psarades (Fishermen) between the two lakes, allowing you to enjoy the incredible scenery (including the ancient cedar forest near Mount Devas) from the water. Monks built their hermitages along the shores during Ottoman times. In Agios Germanos, the largest of the so-called Prespa villages, you will find churches dating from the 11th century. The area is also famous for its pulses and heart-warming bean soup.

Explore the neighbourhoods of historic Veria

Veria was founded in the 5th century BC and is famous for welcoming the Apostle Paul, who preached early Christianity here. It became one of the most important cities of the Byzantine Empire, leaving a legacy of dozens of churches dating from the 11th to 14th centuries. There are fascinating neighbourhoods to explore, including Barbouta (the Jewish quarter in the 1850s) by the Tripotamos River, where you will find an impressively decorated synagogue. Elsewhere, Kyriotissa is a maze of alleyways and two-storey houses with characteristic wooden overhangs. There is a selection of tavernas and cafes by the river.

Learn more about Veria

Go wine tasting in Naoussa

Naoussa is both a town and one of Greece’s best-known wine-producing regions, renowned for the Xinomavro variety of grape that produces full-bodied reds. The Naoussa Wine Route is part of the Wine Route of Northern Greece (an initiative of local wine producers), featuring the wineries of PDO Naoussa. The Arapitsa River divides the town in two and neighbourhoods like Alonia, Pouliana and Batania are full of examples of Macedonian architecture. You'll also find water-powered textile mills from the 19th and early 20th centuries, and you can learn more about Naoussa’s past at the History and Folklore Museum.

Discover the hidden gems of Naoussa

Experience the nightlife scene of Thessaloniki

Returning to Thessaloniki, you enjoy the nightlife of Greece’s most fun-loving and multicultural city. Thessaloniki has everything you could look for in a night out, including traditional tavernas, high-end restaurants and bistros, and lively bars. There are plenty of dining options around Mitropoleos (the main shopping street) and in the renovated former commercial district of Ladadika. A local tip is the Bit Bazaar neighbourhood near Ladadika, or you could head for one of the many places to eat and drink by the waterfront. 

Enjoy the best of Thessaloniki’s nightlife scene

Visit the Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki

The Archaeological Museum offers a whirlwind tour of the history of Thessaloniki. Its exhibits take you from the extraordinary Petralona Hoard of tools and weapons, discovered in a nearby cave and dated to the 3rd millennium BC, to the incredible metalwork (gold wreaths, weapons, jewellery etc) of the Macedonian dynasty. You’ll also learn about the Roman occupation of Thessaloniki when the city was an important outpost of the Roman Empire and saw further advances in education, sports, agriculture, trading and the arts.

Take a tour of the Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki

Fill up on the city’s food culture

Thessaloniki is legendary in Greece for its diverse and delicious food. The Kapani market is full of vendors selling olives, cheeses and cold cuts, and visiting the recently refurbished Modiano Market (built in the 1930s) is a must. Favourite local nibbles include the koulouri (sesame seed-covered bread rings) and bougatsa (filo pastry with a semolina-cream filling dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon). Breakfast in Thessaloniki can be either. Other classic tastes include tsoureki (a sweet bread) and trigona panoramatos (triangular-shaped folds of golden phyllo pastry, dunked in syrup and filled with cream and nuts).

Enjoy a foodie guide to Thessaloniki

Take a sunset stroll by the waterfront

In a single stroll by the waterfront, you can enjoy so many of the sights that give Thessaloniki its special character. It’s a 5km walk from the city’s Concert Hall (Megaro Mousikis) to the Ladadika district by the docks, so your walk can be as long or short as you like. Landmarks along the way include the Umbrellas Sculpture by Zongolopoulos, the statue of Alexander the Great on horseback, the Royal Theatre, the White Tower (now a museum dedicated to Thessaloniki's historical, cultural and social development) and Aristotelous Square. Close to the docks are the MOMus–Experimental Center for the Arts and the old warehouses designed by Eli Modiano, now housing the Museum of Photography, the Cinema Museum and the Contemporary Art Centre, as well as restaurants and bars.

Discover the best things to do in Thessaloniki

Take a boat trip to dreamy Diaporos

As hard as it will be to leave Vourvourou, a boat trip allows you to enjoy the otherwise inaccessible beaches of Diaporos and the other islets visible from the shore. Boats (with or without a skipper) are available from just next to the beach or from the northern end of the bay. Standout swimming spots on Diaporos include Myrsini beach (one of the best in Sithonia) and the aptly named Hawaii (or White) beach. Other islets in the cluster include Peristeri, Ampelitsi and Agios Isidoros. They’re all magical.

Learn more about a boat trip to the Diaporos isles

Enjoy dinner in authentic Nikiti village

Over on the west coast of Sithonia, the village of Nikiti is a lovely spot for an evening meal. It is full of authentic touches, with stone houses and flower-filled courtyards and a square with plane trees and tavernas. From the square, winding alleys lead to small shops selling souvenirs and local products. Look out for the honey, the village is famous for it. There is also the village church and the Historical & Folklore Museum to visit, in an old school building dating from the 1870s.

Explore the timeless villages of Halkidiki

Head to the wineries and villages of Mount Pangaio

About 40km from Philippi, Mount Pangaio is covered with a forest of beech, plane, fir and chestnut trees and was known in ancient times for the worship of Dionysus (the god of wine and revelry). So it is fitting that the vineyards on its lower slopes are included in the Wine Route of Dionysus (part of the Winemakers of Northern Greece initiative). Local grape varieties grown here include Assyrtiko, Roditis, Malagouzia and Moschato, which you can learn about by wine tasting and going on a vineyard tour at a winery. Villages worth visiting include Moustheni (with arched bridges, watermills and fountains, as well as an Old Turkish School and Folk Museum and Mesoropi (the starting point of the Mesoropi Trail). Be sure to sample local products such as olive oil, cheese and amygdolata (almond sweets).

Discover all the things to do on the slopes of Mt Pangaio

Set out on a stroll around Kavala

The city of Kavala is all about unexpected blends. Everything about its culture, architecture and food reflects its unique identity and history. Byzantines, Ottomans, Jews, merchants, tobacco workers, refugees and intellectuals have coexisted here over the years, as you can tell from the elegant neoclassical buildings and refurbished or abandoned tobacco warehouses (from when Kavala was a major tobacco exporter). The Panagia district of the Old Town squeezes in over 2,500 years of history, including the remains of the acropolis and castle. From here, you have a good view of the 270m-long arched aqueduct known as the Kamares, created by the Romans but rebuilt by the Ottomans in the 16th century.

Discover the best of Kavala 

Experience a tapestry of cultures in Xanthi

Xanthi is famous for its mix of cultures and religions (including a large Turkish-speaking Muslim population). It’s another city with a unique combination of traditions and people. The old town has grand mansions of former tobacco merchants and buildings with ornately carved doors and handmade furniture. Look out for the 1830s-built Town Hall and the Municipal Gallery on Orpheus Street, as well as the Folklore Museum. Xanthi also has one of the most colourful Lenten carnivals in Greece.

Discover more about Xanthi

Head deeper into the east in Komotini

Heading further into the region of Thrace, you reach Komotini, another city with a rich blend of East and West and a larger Muslim population. The heart of the city is Eirinis Square, with its many cafes and places to eat, and Ermou and Ioannina streets in the Teneketzidika neighbourhood (named after the profession that made and repaired household items) are the main shopping streets. The Clock Tower in the centre is part of the Yeni Mosque, which dates from 1585. Don't leave without trying soutzouk loukoum, a sausage-shaped dessert made from grape must and nuts that is part of the Komotini’s culinary identity.

Stop at the Byzantine’s Platamon Castle

Continuing south, you reach the Castle of Platamon (or Platamonas), one of the best-preserved Byzantine fortresses in Greece. With Mount Olympus on one side and the Thermaic Gulf on the other, it is an example of a monument that combines mountain and sea. The greenery extends to within the castle walls and a long beachfront stretches out below the castle walls. Strategically located at the exit of the Tempi Valley, the castle was built in the 13th century with walls 9 metres high and 2 metres thick. Within the walls are a grand central tower and the church of Agia Paraskevi.

Enjoy the best of Pieria 

Stop in historic Ampelakia

Your third stop today is the village of Ampelakia, in the Thessaly region. It is famous for being the birthplace of “The Common Fellowship and Brotherhood of Ampelakia”, established in 1778 during the Ottoman occupation and one of the world’s first cooperatives. It was created by a group of businesses that processed and exported yarn, bringing wealth to the previously poor village. Among the handsome, red-tiled buildings is the George Schwartz Mansion, which was the headquarters of the cooperative. It is decorated with carved wooden ceilings, porcelain fireplaces and frescoes. You can also visit the Folklore Museum of Ampelakia and the Museum of National Resistance. The village square has a selection of traditional cafes and tavernas.

Fill up on authenticity in Portaria

Another must-see village on Mount Pelion is Portaria, practically walking distance from Makrinitsa. The chapel of Panagia Portarea greets you and the main square has tavernas and cafes shaded by plane trees. Look out for the Mana Fountain, from which a path leads along a ravine with streams and small wooden bridges. It's the start of the Centaur Trail, a short nature walk named after the half-human, half-goat centaurs who, according to mythology, lived on Mount Pelion. The trail ends at the Karavo Waterfall.

Raise a toast to life in Volos

Your road trip through northern Greece ends in Volos, a city on the Pagasitic Gulf believed to be ancient Iolcos, from where Jason and the Argonauts set out on their epic quest for the Golden Fleece. There is a model of the Argo (Jason’s ship) on the waterfront, from where you can stroll past tsipouradika, the meze restaurants serving tsipouro (Volos’ famous firewater), and soak up the lively atmosphere. Industrial buildings, museums, shops and exhibition spaces all add to the atmosphere of the university town.