A tour of Agora Modiano, the central food market of Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki has fully earned its reputation as one of the top foodie destinations in Greece. Everything from street food to high-end cuisine reflects the incredible wealth of cultures that have passed through or settled in this fascinating city as well as the legendary appetite for life of its residents. And at the heart of it all for almost a century – both as a city landmark and a functioning part of daily life – has been its central food market, known as Agora Modiano.

Visiting the city’s largest covered market is a highlight experience for any self-respecting foodie on holiday in Thessaloniki. Fully refurbished but incorporating much of the original architecture (avant-garde back in the day), the Agora Modiano is a contemporary yet traditional food market whose history dates to 1922 when it was part of an ambitious redesign of the city centre after the devastating fire of 1917. 

It was completed in 1930 by architect Eli Modiano, the son of a banker and member of a renowned local Jewish family, who studied architecture in Paris and is responsible for many of Thessaloniki’s most important buildings. The partly glass roof and interior were reminiscent of a Parisian market but the colour and banter of the stall owners have always been Thessaloniki at its extrovert best. 

Without losing any of the character and essence of its original design (including part of a mosaic floor), Modiano has been reborn as a modern and multicultural food market that is true to its ambition of combining the glamour of the past and the dynamism of the future.

The main entrances are below neoclassical pediments via Vasileos Irakliou St and Ermou St (a short walk from Aristotelous Square near the waterfront), leading into a basilica-shaped market with around 75 stalls divided into ‘neighbourhoods’ according to food type. 

Fruit & vegetables, seafood, meat (premium and unexpected cuts), nuts & spices, cold cuts, cheeses and other delicatessen items all vie for your attention, while craft products include ice cream made with olive oil from Thessaloniki as well as cream, beers & wines from Greek microbreweries and vineyards, and artisanal breads & freshly baked biscuits.

Many of the stalls sell street food (including Italian and falafel and other vegan products) which you are welcome to eat at tables in a balcony area overlooking the main market, where you’ll also find a zero-waste bar and brunch outlet. The balcony also doubles as a venue for music and food events and co-working spaces for digital nomads. So feel free to soak up the atmosphere (and order a second cocktail!). 

The commitment to sustainability includes bioclimatic architecture and a neutral-waste policy, recycling not just paper and plastics but also food waste. That sweetness you taste in your cocktail might just be surplus syrup from a confectionery store! But above all, Modiano perfectly captures Thessaloniki’s passion for food and sense of community.