Margarites village
Very close to Ancient Eleutherna, the village of Margarites is built amphitheatrically at around 300 metres, with views over lush gorges and towards the sea of northern Crete. It is known as the village of the pitharades– the jar-makers – and is an important centre of pottery in western Crete. More than a dozen traditional workshops, known as tsikalaria, operate in its cobbled lanes, where craftsmen work using traditional methods, often with a foot-powered wheel. Ceramics of every kind adorn courtyards, walls and shop fronts, giving the village the feel of an open-air folk-art museum. The stone-built houses and picturesque churches add to the appeal – and there are plenty of small shops and cafes for a coffee or a bite to eat.
Local tip: Around 20 minutes away by car, the Melidoni Cave – known as Gerontospilios – is a site of mythological and historical significance. It was a place of worship in Minoan times and is linked to one of the most tragic episodes of the Ottoman occupation, when hundreds of sheltering women, children and fighters lost their lives here during a siege in 1823. Inside, impressive stalactites and stalagmites form natural chambers.