10 best things to do in Amorgos

There are two main squares, Kato (or Lower) and Apano (Upper) Loza, from the Latin word ‘loggia’ or market. From the lower square and the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin (the cathedral of Amorgos), you can explore a labyrinth of streets with hidden cafes, bars and shops. Attractions include the Archaeological Collection of Amorgos (housed in the 16th-century Gavras Tower) and the Ecclesiastical Museum (with early Christian, Byzantine and post-Byzantine icons). But the star of the show is the castle, which you reach from the Upper Square (or Loza). Passing the whitewashed chapel of Kyra Leousa (Amorgos’ first metropolis), you reach the battlements and other Venetian-era fortifications and enjoy the iconic views of the Aegean that you’ll never tire of seeing during your holidays in Amorgos.

The village of Agios Pavlos is famous for its 'sand tongue' (a sandy promontory) and has some of the most picturesque beaches in Amorgos. The sea here is usually calm and opposite is the island of Nikouria, which has three sandy beaches of its own. There are plenty of other beautiful beaches on Amorgos, so why not take a boat trip around the island, stopping off at secluded coves along the way? Halara is a hidden gem of a beach, with clear and cold water fed by underground springs, that is a great addition to a boat trip. Alternatively, you need to hike around 2 hours from Asfontilitis village to get there. So you’ll need to be fully prepared with food and plenty of water.

On the island made famous by the free diving theme of the Big Blue, there are diving schools, including that of Dimitris Synodinos. After watching the film as a child, Dimitris was inspired to take up free diving and became a free and scuba diving instructor. See below for details of diving schools on Amorgos.

Other marked routes include the path between Hora and Katapola (passing the areas of Fonies and Milies and the chapel of Agia Irini) and between Katapola and Ancient Minoa, which was inhabited from the 11th century BC to the 4th century A.D and was once the summer residence of the Cretan King Minos. Another more demanding trail is the 3hr route from Lagada village along the northern slopes of Mount Kroukelos (or Krikellos, the highest point on Amorgos). It follows a verdant ravine and ends in a beautiful wild landscape, passing old farms of Lagada residents and (if you’re lucky) goats nestling in small caves on the hillside. The area here is part of the Natura 2000 network and the sea views are magical. Other highlights include the Church of Agia Varvara, the Monastery of Agios Ioannis of the Theologian and the all-white Church of Stavros on the northeast coast, which marks the end of the walk. Below the church of Stavros are remains of the old bauxite mines of Amorgos (but don’t walk there as it can be dangerous).

The Amorgos Trail Challenge is organised every spring by the Amorgos Nature & Hiking Association 'Palia Strata' and includes a series of fun races of varying distances for adults and children.

Born before 1900, Roussos was unable to walk and so was moved by family and friends to different parts of the village as they worked. He passed the time by painting and carving artwork into stones around him. His art depicted scenes of everyday village life, as well as animals and people.

Among the dates sometimes painted on the stones were 1897 and 1943, his first and last known artwork.

Local tip: There is a wonderful taverna just outside the village that serves farm-to-table food.

Local tip: On your way back, you can stop to see Villa Mâche, a country house above Lefkes beach and near Finikies beach by Katapola. It is the work of Yannis Xenakis, one of the most important Greek composers and architects of the 20th century, who designed and built it in 1966 for his daughter, the painter and sculptor Mâkhi Xenakis, and her French husband, composer François-Bernard Mache.

Local dishes to look out for include patatato, a dish of sheep or goat’s meat (sometimes combined with local beef) usually served in a clay pot. The secret is slow-cooking it over a fire, with tomato paste, allspice, onion, cloves, cinnamon and garlic, as well as potatoes freshly cut by hand. Kakavia is a soup made with skorpina (scorpion fish), monkfish, perch and other fish. And xydato is another soup with finely chopped goat’s entrails with, among other ingredients, salt and pepper, garlic cloves and vinegar (xydi is vinegar in Greek), served in the early hours of the morning at all-night festivals. Sweet treats include xerotigano (fried dough swirls, topped with honey and nuts) and pasteli (sesame and honey bars) served at christenings, weddings and other celebrations.
 

For a week during Easter, the icons of the Hozoviotissa Monastery are taken to different churches around the island. Locals and visitors often accompany the procession, an experience made more special by the aromas of the herbs and the blooming plants of spring.

Next, on the road between Hora and Kato Meria is the 16th-century Monastery of Agios Georgios Valsamitis. Built in the Byzantine style with a three-aisled, vaulted basilica, it stands on the site of an ancient temple believed to have been dedicated to Apollo. The nun Irene will show you where a ‘spring oracle’ once flowed, used for hydromancy (water divination) even after the introduction of Christianity, until the 19th century. Inside are frescoes from the post-Byzantine period (17th-18th century).