8-day road trip to experience the best of Chania

The Venetian Harbour

Without a doubt, the most romantic setting in Chania’s Old Town is the Venetian harbour, built in the 14th century. It became central to the naval resistance against and the Turks and Chania flourishing as a commercial hub. Don’t miss the Neoria (narrow, stone buildings once serving as ship repair yards) and the iconic lighthouse, introduced by the Venetians at the turn of the 17th century and finished by the Egyptians in the 1830s.

Sunset dinner in Tabakaria

For a hidden gem in which to enjoy your first meal, head to Tabakaria on the eastern outskirts of town. The district was famous for its tanneries in the early 19th century, with many of the buildings once used to process leather hides still standing and some having been renovated. It’s a wonderfully atmospheric setting for a seaside meal. 

The magnificent sunset

It’s worth spending the day at Balos – not just to enjoy the beach but to leave as the sun is setting. There’s a viewpoint on the 1km walk back up to the car park, from where you can have one last (loooong!) look at the lagoon and appreciate all those colours in the setting sun. Those shimmering flecks of pink in the sand… they’re from crushed shells. 

Dining in Kalyviani village

For a glorious taste of authentic Cretan cuisine stop at Kalyviani village, a short drive along the road back to town. It’s a sleepy village of around 300 residents with some excellent, family-friendly restaurants. Look out for the local dishes cooked in the wood-fired oven. They’re heavenly. 

A foodie guide to Crete

SUP-ing at Kedrodasos beach

There’s another (far less known) swathe of paradise nearby. Kedrodasos means cedar forest – although the trees from which the beach takes its name are actually junipers. To get the most out of this dreamy beach, hire a Stand-Up Paddleboard and explore the cove. The sense of escape is magical. (A tip for those who prefer something even more active than SUP: Falasarna Beach, in northwest Chania, is a surfing hub.)

Where to enjoy water sports in Chania

Marmara beach

If you want to swim with an even greater sense of seclusion, pick a boat that also takes you to the beach of Marmara, just up the coast. The compact, pebbly beach has fantastically clear water and a view of the Aradena Gorge. (The other way to get there is a 6km hike.) There’s a very good taverna just above the beach. 

Agia Roumeli

Agia Roumeli is famous as the end-point of the Samaria Gorge and, other than completing the 16km walk down the gorge, it is only accessible by boat. You will be able to enjoy an afternoon swim with a dramatic backdrop of the famous gorge.

Exploring the Gigilos trail

If you’re looking for a lesser-known but equally epic way to enjoy the White Mountains, the Gigilos Trail is a great local tip. Using the Kallergis Refuge (northeast of Xyloskalo) as your base, the trail offers big, big views and a feeling of total isolation. You could hike or even bring mountain bikes from Chania.

A cookery class

Local artisan cheeses, honey, meats sourced from nearby farmers and a whole load of other seasonal produce come to life as you learn the secrets behind local combinations and cooking techniques – accompanied, of course, a glass of tsikoudia (firewater) made in a seasonal distillery. There are plenty of cookery classes to choose from, with The Olive Farm, in the village of Litsarda, being a great option.

Olive oil, naturally!

No kitchen in Chania is complete without a bottle of local olive oil. There’s something primal about olive oil in Chania. You feel it in olive groves right across the countryside and taste it the traditional stone-milled, extra-virgin olive oil. Head to Biolea, in Kolympari, and discover why olive oil production in Chania is an art form.

Douliana

With around 200 residents, there’s a wonderfully cosy village feel to Douliana, with traditional stone houses and a tiny church. You’ll love the views of the Bay of Souda and the White Mountains and there is a handful of short walking paths that set out from the village, including one to Gavalohori.

Gavalohori

Whether you arrive by foot or car, you’ll be greeted by authentic stone houses, cobblestone streets and quaint coffee shops in Gavalohori village. Order yourself a traditional coffee and make a point of speaking with the locals. There’s a Folk Museum with a collection of local costumes, old coins and items of everyday village life from days gone by. 

Fres

You’re off into the foothills of the White Mountains next, passing by olive groves and vineyards and rising 220m to the village of Fres. Life in Fres centres around the village square, with shops, cafes and tavernas and, just outside town, is the church of Paniagia of Two Rocks (built, as the name suggests, on a rock) in which there is a collection of beautiful frescoes. 

Vrises

Your final village takes you further into nature as you head to Vrises, situated in a green valley surrounded by running water (its name means ‘sources’). Take your time to enjoy the countryside, with the nearby Lake Kourna being Crete’s only natural lake, before settling down for a meal to remember in a waterfront taverna in the village.