A 10-day island-hopping tour of Andros, Syros and Tinos

The nearby beaches

Time to treat yourself to a swim. Just to the north of Hora, Nimporio is protected from the summer winds (Meltemia) that often blow in Andros and is a perfect town beach. There’s a rock (known to the locals as Tourlos) that divides the beach into a sandy and pebbly side. Or you could walk around 10mins to the golden sand and clear blue water of Piso Gialia. You’ll need to negotiate around 120 steps from the road to reach it. 

Stenies village

You end the day with a first foray into the villages by visiting Stenies, a hillside settlement just above Piso Gialia beach. You’ll find more captain’s houses in the upper town (the influences of shipping are strong here too) but also a totally traditional feel and the lower town is distinctive for the 17th-century three-storey Tower of Bisti-Mouvela. Find yourself a ‘kafeneion’ to get a really good sense of village life. 

Achla beach

On to one of the most beautiful beaches on the island. The dirt road leading to Achla from Vourkoti village can be bumpy, so if you don’t have a 4x4 the best way to get there is by boat from Hora. You’ll enjoy a beach of fine white pebbles and crushed seashells, as well as clear water and a background of plane trees and a river. It’s also one of the calmer beaches when the wind is blowing. Nearby is the quaint little church of Agios Nikolaos. 

Menites village

On to the little village of Menites, built between walnut and plane trees and surrounded by yet more running water and springs. What better place to end your day than in the picturesque main square in a cafe or a taverna? Ask about the legend behind the carved lion heads from where the spring water runs at the entrance of the village. The answer has to do with the name of the village.

Tis Grias to Pidima beach

Probably the most famous beach on Andros and certainly the most photographed due to the mysterious rock formation protruding column-like from the sea, from which the beach takes its name. ‘The old lady’s leap’ (as it translates) relates to a story of an old lady, the Ottomans, betrayal, regret and (you guessed it) a big leap from the rocks. Getting to the beach involves a bit of a walk but the reward is fantastic swimming and a unique setting. 

Korthi village

Another village to end the day. In fact, Korthi is more like two villages – both mountainous and coastal, which is how the settlement has evolved. Start by enjoying the traditional houses and mansions in the hills, before descending to the bay (called either Ormos Korthiou or Gialos) for a seafood meal in a waterfront taverna. If you feel like something sweet, grab a pasteli (a sesame honey bar) or amygdalota (traditional almond biscuits for which Andros is famed).

Chrissi Ammos beach

If you want a change of beach scene during the day or perhaps something more organised and lively, Chrissi Ammos is the place to go. Between the port of Gavrio and Batsi, it’s one of the most popular beaches on the island because of its fantastic water, beach bar and water sports scene and the fact that it is in a more protected bay. It has all the facilities you could need but its most popular feature is in its name, which translates as Golden Sand. 

Batsi village

The coastal village of Batsi is where a lot of Andros’ nightlife is concentrated (unusually for a Greek island, not in the main town). Many of the cafes, restaurants, shops and bars are found in the harbour and look out for the local women’s cooperative selling local products (most members are farmers). There’s also a beach with sand and facilities, meaning Batsi is the focal point of many holidays on Andros. 

Vaporia

Part of Syros’ main town but worth its own attention. This is the most aristocratic neighbourhood of Ermoupoli, owing to its high-ceilinged mansions built over the water as if they were ships (Vaporia means Boats). Take your time to wander around and choose a spot for lunch. But before you do that, have a dip (or a coffee) at Asteria Beach, which is actually a rocky platform that has one of the best views on Syros and is a popular spot for a dive. 

Galissas beach

The perfect choice of beach close to Ermoupoli, not just because it’s sandy but because it has a good selection of tavernas. But make sure you explore a bit, heading up to the little church of Agia Pakou (the view is fantastic) or even the nearby beach of Armeos for a more secluded dive. Another gem is the church of Agios Stefanos, literally built into the mouth of a cave. A path leads there or you can take a boat from Galissas. 

Kini village

The scenery changes as you head to the village of Kini, with its fishing boats and tavernas on the waterfront. Choose the one that appeals most and order yourself a seafood meze and ice-cold ouzo. You’ll find numerous references in Kini to the importance of the sea on the lives of its residents, with a statue of a mermaid protectively holding a fisherman and a small museum of fishing vessels. It’s also got one of the loveliest beaches on Syros, which you can enjoy before or after your meal. Or both! 

San Michali village

Having ventured this far, it’s worth heading a little bit further, into Apano Meria, which is the name for much of the north of the island. The scenery here has its own charm – part arid, part mountainous, mixing valleys and craggy shoreline, and it attracts very few visitors. There are numerous villages to explore, especially San Michali, famous for its hard, yellow cheese. There’s a taverna here with probably the best food-and-sunset combo on the island. 

Komito beach

If you prefer something a little quieter, then just next door is Komito beach. You’ll also find facilities here, but there are fewer sunbeds and umbrellas and a beach bar giving an even more relaxing mood to your swim. The trees lining the back of the beach and gorgeous turquoise water complete the mood. 

Posidonia village

The one-time aristocratic heart of Syros, gathering lords and other nobility, Posidonia was formerly known as Delagratsia, from the Catholic church of Madonna de la Grazia. The legacy is now felt in the stately mansion houses, many with neoclassical designs. Look for Villa Tsiropina (used as the Village Hall and a cultural hub) as well as the beautiful churches, such as the chapel of Agios Ioannis. There are plenty of dining options here.

Nearby beaches

Nearby beaches 

A beach is never far away on Tinos. There are two great swimming spots just by Hora, fully organised and with excellent swimming conditions. Agios Fokas is right by town, with sunbeds and plenty of snack bars and tavernas, but also long stretches with nothing by sand. And just a short distance out of town is Agios Sostis. Sandy and with trees offering shade, it also has a beach bar and tavernas nearby.

Volax village

The scenery changes again in a village that is just 15mins from Kolymbithra beach. Amongst Tinos’ many settlements, Volax stands out because of the smooth, granite boulders (a geological phenomenon that has attracted many theories) found around the surrounding area and even in the village itself. It’s also a village of basket-weavers. You’ll find cafes and tavernas and the surrounding area is great for hiking.

Discover the hiking paths of Tinos 

Pyrgos village

You’ll find plenty more examples of Tinos’ famed marblework in the windows and doors, and embossed in intricate patterns of houses, as you wander the streets of Pyrgos. There’s also a Museum of Marble Crafts and the Museum of Tinian Artists. And you should pop into the former house (now a museum) of Giannoulis Halepas (a legendary marble craftsman). Don’t leave without trying a galaktoboureko (a custard-and-phyllo pie) or an orange cake in the village square and finding something arty to take home with you.

Panormos Bay

You end your village-hopping tour at a fantastic bay on the northwestern coast, with plenty of choices of beach – such as Rohari (with its facilities and beach bar), Agia Thalassa and Kavalourko. The nearby settlement is the perfect place for an evening stroll and a last taverna meal by the sea.