The fifth-largest island in Greece, Chios is world-famous for the cultivation of mastic and hides many treasures but it is also one of the country’s less-explored holiday destinations. Among its many settlements are medieval villages that were fortified by the Byzantines and Genoese settlers, and it has fertile plains filled with citrus orchards. There are hills with views of the Aegean Sea and strong Mediterranean features, as well as beautifully preserved churches and monasteries and villas built with the riches of shipping. According to the historian Thucydides, it was the birthplace of Homer and its past is linked to its close relationship with Ionia, the ancient region of coastal Anatolia. Reached by boat from the port of Piraeus (8hrs) or by plane from Athens (50 mins), Chios is a wonderful choice for holidays in the North Aegean.
Explore the medieval castle of Chios
The Hora (or main town) of Chios is the island’s most populous settlement, as well as its administrative, spiritual, cultural, educational and commercial centre. It is also the main port, built on the eastern side of the island, facing the Turkish coast. It is a sprawling settlement, but there was a time when the whole town (now the Old Town) was enclosed within the walls of the castle, which still stands proudly by the port. The area was inhabited as long ago as the Hellenistic period (4th-1st century BC), but the castle dates to medieval times, initially built by the Byzantines (10th century) and expanded by the Genoese, who ruled Chios from the 14th-16th century. It has remained permanently inhabited, with a population of around 600 and a central square with cafes and restaurants. So visiting it is the first of your things to do in Chios.
You enter through the Porta Maggiore (the central gate, reconstructed by the Venetians in 1694) at the southern end. Highlights within the castle include the renovated Hamidiye Mosque (aka Bayrakli Mosque), built in the late 19th century one of three surviving mosques on Chios) and the Ottoman Baths. The Giustiniani Palace is a 15th or 16th-century fortress built into the castle walls which now houses periodical exhibitions. And if you walk as far as the eastern wall, you will find a promenade, with views over the sea.
Learn all about the history of Chios
Beyond the castle walls, you move into the more modern part of Hora, filled with shops, houses and places to eat and drink. There are also museums to better understand the history and people of Chios. Near the port is one of the largest and most important libraries in Greece, the Public Central Historical Library of Chios "KORAES”, founded in 1792 as an annexe to the Great School of Chios (which played a significant role in the intellectual and cultural revival of Greece during Ottoman rule). It houses 290,000 volumes and on the first floor is the Argenti Museum, with historical paintings and a unique collection of folklore objects (costumes, embroidery, textiles, tools and everyday utensils). There is also an art gallery on the same floor.
A short walk away, the Maritime Museum of Chios is housed in a 19th-century mansion and charts the island’s long seafaring tradition. As well as portraits of sailing boats and steam-powered ships, there are ship models and photographs of life at sea and nautical instruments. Near the southern end of the port is the Archaeological Museum (which is being renovated). And finally, in the central square of Hora, by the Municipal Garden, are two more important museums. The Byzantine Museum of Chios is housed in the former Mecidiye Mosque, displaying Christian and Byzantine sculptures and murals, as well as exhibits from the Genoese and Ottoman periods. And the Municipal Gallery has a permanent exhibition of local artists, as well as sculptures and photography. Next door, the cafes and restaurants of Aplotaria Street and the district around it are the perfect place to grab a bite.
Head to a seaside settlement for seafood
There are villages throughout Chios. The first you’ll be exploring are the coastal settlements north of Hora, full of picturesque bays, colourful houses and seafood tavernas. The closest is Vrontados, around 6km away and practically a suburb of Hora. It’s one of the island’s largest settlements and is famous for its long maritime tradition. It also features some of the most-photographed spots on the island, Tris Mili (Three Windmills), the Monument of the Unknown Sailor and (heading out of Vrontados) Homer’s Rock at Daskalopetra, where Homer is said to have taught.
Continuing up the coast, you reach Lagada, a small, settlement with views to Inousses (a small island off the coast of Chios). And a further 10km away is Marmaro, another coastal settlement, named after the white marble quarries of the area. It is known for its neoclassical houses, its windmills by the port and the church of St Loukas, built in 1600.
Get to know the mastic tradition of Chios
Learning about the production process and tradition of mastic (or mastiha) is a must on any list of things to do in Chios. The teardrop-shaped resin is harvested from low-growing trees cultivated in the mastihohoria (mastic villages) of Chios. It has a unique taste and is used in an incredible variety of ways, from flavouring drinks and bread to being used as a scent in cosmetics or as a core ingredient of health products.
There are around 5,000 mastic producers in Chios, arranged in communities and cooperatives, within and between mastic villages like Mesta, Pyrgi, Olymbi, Vessa and Armolia. The collection and processing of mastic has remained virtually unchanged since Byzantine times and has been included on UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage. It is produced nowhere else in Greece, as you’ll find out in the Chios Mastic Museum near Pirgi or on an organised tour that takes you to the mastic fields where (especially at harvest time), you’ll witness the kentima (the horizontal or diagonal cut) from which the resin escapes.
A tour of the mastic villages of Chios
The mastic villages of southern Chios (collectively known as the mastihohoria) are wonderful settlements in their own right. Their history and architecture owe everything to the Byzantine and Genoese settlers who turned them into fortified settlements to protect the residents and the precious mastic. There are some 20 mastic villages and, while you won’t be able to visit them all, some stand out.
Pirgi, named after its tall tower, is the largest. Its tightly packed houses and narrow alleyways lead to the main square, giving it a castle-like feel. But its irresistible charm lies in the external decoration of the buildings in the form of black-and-white sketches and paintings (known as xysta). The Church of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary features these markings. Mesta is the best-preserved mastic village, with small, closely built stone houses that form a protective wall and small, circular towers at the corners of the village. The central square (Livadi, as the locals call it) has tavernas and cafes. Olymbi is another ‘castle village’ with narrow streets and arched arcades. It has tall, stone houses, some of whose doors and windows have been turned into enchanting paintings. And in Vessa, the village square welcomes you with an overhanging plane tree that creates shade for a taverna meal, after which you can explore the tower and fortified walls.
A bike ride in citrus-rich Kampos
The next of your things to do in Chios takes you to a very different landscape. Around 6km south of Hora, Kampos is a fertile plain with citrus orchards and high-walled estates. There are about 200 mansions, many from the 15th-18th century and influenced by numerous historical periods. Most have citrus trees and arched entrances with heavy wooden doors leading to a pebbled courtyard and flowering gardens. The best way to discover Kampos is by bike. Cycling down the narrow streets, you can admire the magical courtyard doors. The entire area is known as an open farm and along the way, you can stop at the Perivoli, a 1742-built mansion with a cafe in the yard. It also houses the Citrus Museum, where you can learn about Chios’ tradition of producing mandarins, oranges, lemons and citrons.
Learn all the secrets of the villages of Chios
It’s the local tips that will take your holidays in Chios to the next level and, here, we have some suggestions for the villages in Chios beyond the mastihohoria. Pitios is a remote mountain settlement, about 26 km from Hora, in an area dominated by pine trees (Pitys means pine tree in ancient Greek). Your tip is a local initiative of placing QR codes on the walls of the village. Scanning them, you hear the locals singing traditional songs - a magical way of preserving a local singing tradition and bringing life to the village, especially in winter when there are only about 40 residents.
Elsewhere, Leptopoda is a remote village between the mountains of Pelinaio and Amani, where the square has a traditional cafe called the Empolos. It is a self-managed cafe, with the key always on the door. Make yourself a coffee and leave money according to the price list. Anavatos is a medieval village in central Chios which, though deserted, still preserves its history and the aura of its stone-paved streets. It played an important role in the Greek War of Independence. And Avgonyma, built at the top of a hill a few kilometres from Elinda beach, has views over the Aegean that take the breath away, especially from a choice of wonderful tavernas. Finally, Kampia is a traditional settlement about 48km from Hora, at the foot of Mount Pelinaio. It has panoramic sea views and is surrounded by nature. Passing the village square and following the alley to the right, you find yourself on a path with a wooden sign. It takes you into a small gorge with a footpath that leads to Kampia beach.
Swim in the magical waters of the North Aegean
After all that exploring, it's only right to reward yourself with some time on the beach. And Chios doesn’t disappoint when it comes to swimming spots. You’ll find both organised and remote beaches in Chios wherever you are staying. Among the best known are Mavra Volia (named after its black, shiny pebbles) near Emporio, Vroulida on the south coast, and Agia Dynami, close to the mastic villages and with shallow water that is always a hit with kids.
There are lesser-known gems, too, such as Elinda on the west coast. Named after the ancient Greek word "alios", meaning "he who belongs to the sea", it is a rounded cove of white pebbles and has the most beautiful, clear water. It is a natural harbour that is sheltered from the weather. Very close by is Trachili , another gem of a beach. Other options, especially if you are visiting the mastic villages, are Pirgousiki Avlonia (reached by a 30min trail from the Medieval Tower of Dotia) and Apothika. Finally, Mersinidi (about 9km from Hora) has small, shiny pebbles and deep blue water.
Enjoy the local food and dishes
Mastiha is bound to feature in the flavours that you’ll be introduced to in Chios, perhaps most memorably in mastiha liqueur or as an ipovrihio (submarine), which is a mastic-scented confection served on a spoon dipped in a glass of ice-cold water. And you’ll get to know all about the citrus fruit of Chios (mandarins are a Protected Geographical Indication product).
Famous for their intense aroma and unique taste, Kampos citrus fruit are turned into juices and orange, bergamot and citron ‘spoon sweets’. But Chios also has microbreweries producing beer made from selected malts and whole hops, with a rich, fruity flavour. Meanwhile, the local throumba olives, known as Kourmades and cut while unripe and matured in brine, have Protected Designation of Origin status. Local cheeses include a white cheese made from cow's or goat's milk, which has a soft texture and a slightly salty flavour.
A few local specialities to help you navigate the taverna menu include: Avgokalamara are small crepe-like omelettes filled with mince. Melitzanopilafo is rice cooked with aubergines and red sauce. Kopanistopitakia with ouzo is an ouzo-scented dough, filled with kopanisti cheese and fried (an ideal meze for a variety of drinks). Koutsounades are the long, thin leaves of wild poppies, cooked as a pie (pita) or with cuttlefish or octopus. Tambouradopita (or Tambouras) is a savoury pie made with red or yellow pumpkin. Artichokes with tsitsidia are served with koukia beans. Amanites feature mushrooms gathered in specific months (usually after the first rains) that are fried with lemon and salt. Masourakia (or mastihakia) is a sweet that is traditionally prepared for feasts and celebrations, scented with mastiha and with a crunchy fillo pastry.
And finally, Mestousiko wine and Souma (both from Mesta village) are produced from the distillation of figs and grapes. They are strong but at the same time very pure drinks. Don’t leave Chios without trying them.
Hike on one of the tallest peaks of the north Aegean
Mount Pelinaio is found at the northwestern point of the island and, at 1,297m, is the highest peak in Chios and one of the tallest in the Aegean. There are two paths to the top and both are wonderful hiking experiences. One starts near the village of Spartounta and the other from Viki. Either way, you’ll be treated to one of the most distinctive sights at the top of the mountain where the little blue chapel of Agia Triada awaits you.
It is made of sheet metal and tied to the rocks with wire ropes to prevent it from being blown away. Every year, on the day of the Holy Spirit, many people climb to honour its feast day. Mount Pelinaio is an impressive sight whatever the season: blooming in spring, with the vastness of the Aegean Sea as a backdrop in summer, full of attractive colours in autumn, and often dressed in snow in winter.
Hiking is a magical way to enjoy the Greek countryside but make sure to stay safe and be prepared, especially on very hot days. See below for some tips while hiking in Greece.
Visit the UNESCO monument of Nea Moni
Next on your list of things to do in Chios is a visit to a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Nea Moni of Chios is found in the centre of the island at an altitude of 670m on the slopes of Mount Provation, around 12km from Hora. It was founded in 1042 AD and is renowned for its artful mosaics. Its Catholicon is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and its feast day is on 23 August.
In 1990, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site (together with the monasteries of Daphne, on the outskirts of Athens, and Hosios Loukas, near Distomo in central Greece for their “exemplary representations of Byzantine architectural and artistic achievement during the 11th and 12th centuries”).
The climb to the Nea Moni is magnificent, with the rocky slopes surrounding the monastery hiding an idyllic landscape with streams and views towards Hora.
Explore the hidden caves of Chios
The last of your excursions on your holidays in Chios is a choice between two unexpected geological gems. The Cave of Olympi (also known as the Cave of Sykia) is found just south Olympi (one of the mastic villages) and close to Agia Dynami beach. It was first explored in 1985 after a landslide revealed a natural opening in the ceiling of the cave. The first thing you notice when entering is this natural light falling on the rocks, followed by some of the most impressive stalagmites and stalactites in Greece. Meanwhile, the Cave of Agio Galas is found in the northwest, by the settlement of the same name. It is a smaller cave but equally worth visiting. Above the cave is the chapel of Panagias tis Agiogalousainas, built around the 13th or 14th century.
After Best of Title
Best things to do in Chios
Chios is a wonderful choice for holidays in Greece if you’re looking for a relatively unexplored island. There are things to do in Chios all year round, so for the best experience it’s worth visiting before or after the peak summer season, or even in spring and autumn.
FAQs Title
FAQs about Chios, Greece
- My Cafe: For the best coffee in town, located in Chios port and airport. Other than the quality of the coffee, it is known for its handmade snacks
- Boukia Boukia: A restaurant in the port that is great for local dishes, especially those made with mushrooms. The signature dish is striftari manitariou with prawns.
- Vradipous: A creative delicatessen in the heart of the castle where you’ll find vegan choices like soutzoukakia (traditionally stewed meatballs) with mash, made without animal products. Try the savoury cheesecake made with local cheeses and tomato jam.
- Pastry Sinners: A creative pastry shop in Hora if you’re looking for something sweet.
- To Mavro Provato: For alternative cocktails in an atmospheric gallery in the central market of Hora
- Don’t go alone: Always hike with company, never alone.
- Stay hydrated: Always wear a hat and carry plenty of water with you.
- Be weather-wise: Check the weather forecast before setting out. Avoid hiking during the midday heat and extremely hot periods. The best seasons for hiking in Greece are spring and autumn.
- Plan your walk: Whenever possible, follow marked trails and plan your walk. Ask for directions if you’re unsure. This helps protect both you and the natural environment.
- Stay connected: Have the phone numbers of your hotel and local authorities, such as the police, handy. And make sure your mobile phone is fully charged.
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