The Steno – or the Narrow (as Apollonia’s central walkway translates) is a catwalk of cuteness: souvenir stores, trendy bars with rooftops, little tavernas, churches (Agios Spiridonas, Panagia Ouranofora and Agios Ioannis to name but three) and an assortment of other Cycladic perfection. This is where your day could begin or end (or both), strolling along to find the perfect coffee or cocktail spot. Day or night, the Steno puts on quite a show.
There are plenty of reasons to visit Apollonia’s main square (Platia Iroon) but a visit to the Folklore Museum of Sifnos ranks high amongst them. It’s a treasure trove of authenticity, with artefacts from daily life in Sifnos in days gone by (including a collection of textiles, pottery, costumes and paintings).
The coffee experience
There are plenty of family-owned ‘kafeneia’ to choose from in Apollonia, each priding itself in serving what it claims to be the best Greek coffee in the country. And not just coffee. Try the omelettes (with country sausage for that extra taste of Sifnos), or perhaps a mountain herb tea (camomile, mint, sage…) or a homemade lemonade or sour cherry juice. And a spoon sweet… definitely a spoon sweet!
Just before you reach the end of the Steno (or at the beginning, depending on your direction), you can enter Apollonia’s famous ‘Cycladic multi-space’, commonly known as ‘Rabagas’. The renovated cluster of buildings has taken on iconic status because it has gathered everything most classy and refined about Sifnos and presented it in one place. You’ll find a bar (serving everything from breakfast to ice cream to cocktails), a seafood restaurant, a gallery and an assortment of elegant clothes and jewellery boutiques. The shops are a little pricy but feel free to window shop all you like.