7-day road trip to the ancient theatres of Epirus

Stroll around the landmarks of Ioannina

Ioannina is a charming lakeside city, with 18^th and 19^th century buildings, parks and squares. But it’s also a student town, with lively cafes, tavernas and bars. Starting by the Clock Tower in the Park of Heroes (site of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier), you walk past the post-Byzantine-style City Hall in Dimokratias Square and Litharitsia Park, where the Veli Pasha Building Complex (part of a palace built by Ali Pasha for his son) is located. Litharitsia Park has a rooftop restaurant/bar with views of the city. There are cafes and shops along Averoff Street to Mavili Square by the lake. For tavernas and an evening drink, head to Anexartisias and its side streets.

Take a walking tour of Ioannina

Enjoy the mountain village of Metsovo

From Dodoni, you drive 55km to Metsovo, which offers epic views of the Pindus Mountains. It is the centre of Greece’s Vlach population, known for their distinct dialect and customs, and the birthplace of Georgios Averoff, a great benefactor who made his fortune in Egypt and rebuilt Metsovo, after it had been destroyed by the Ottomans in 1854. Metsovo is famous for its cheeses (especially smoked Metsovone) and wines made from the highest vineyards in Greece (over 1,000m). You can go wine tasting and visit the Averoff Neohellenic Art Museum or Folk Museum. The main square is a great spot for lunch. Around Metsovo are a collection of more than 40km of footpaths known as the Ursa Trail (from the Vlach word for bear) and the villages of Zitsa and Syrrako (45km and 60km away) that are worth visiting.

Discover all the things to do in Metsovo

Spend the evening on Ioannina island

Returning to Ioannina, you end the day by exploring the often fog-shrouded island in the middle of Lake Pamvotida, known simply as Nisi (island in Greek). Boats leave regularly from a small port by the castle. You can walk around the island and visit monasteries, including the Monastery of St Nicholas Filanthropinon (founded in 1291 and famous for its beautiful murals) and the Monastery of Stratigopoulou (also from the 13th century). One of the highlights is the Ali Pasha and Revolutionary Period Museum, just behind the Monastery of Saint Pantaleimon, where Ali Pasha was decapitated in 1822. Exhibits in the museum include Ali Pasha’s gold-plated kariofili rifle and 1.62m-long water pipe (tsimbouki). Shops on the island sell handcrafts and there are tavernas serving eel, crab and other seafood from the lake.

Discover the magical beaches of Sivota

Sivota is a cosmopolitan seaside resort, flanked by four islets that almost conceal it. If it’s spring or summer, this is your opportunity to swim at one of Sivota’s beaches. Some of the best are on the islets in the bay: Bella Vraka on Megalo Mourtemeno (the water is shallow enough to walk to), Pisina on Mavro Oros and Diapori on Agios Nikolaos (reached by boat). Standout beaches on the mainland include Megali and Mikri Ammos, Zavia, Gallikos Molos, Zeri, DEI and Agia Paraskevi. Alternatively, you can hike from Sivota to the abandoned settlement of Vrachonas and the remains of the Acropolis of Polyneri, where you will marvel at the surrounding greenery and views across the Ionian Sea. The route can be difficult to follow in places, so booking a guide, who will also be able to tell you about the history of the area, is highly recommended.

Enjoy a stroll and dinner in Parga

You end the day in Parga, 28km down the coast, another popular seaside settlement with colourful houses cascading down to the sea. The narrow streets are full of shops and there is a picturesque harbour overlooking the islet of Panagia. The best view of the town comes from the Venetian castle. Enjoy a stroll through the narrow streets with shops selling memorabilia as well as cafes and bars before sitting down to dinner at a seafood taverna near the port or castle.

Discover the best beaches in Parga

Step back in time at the Souli Watermills

A short drive from the Acheron Springs are the Souli Watermills, named after the inhabitants of Souli who heroically stood up to the Ottomans long before the 1821 Revolution. They built their settlement in one of the most inaccessible parts of Greece, known for its rugged landscape and running water, which they used to create watermills to grind wheat. An abandoned watermill lies at the foot of a 15m waterfall and another has been restored as a traditional cafe, which is a magical place to relax in the shade of age-old plane trees. Behind the watermill, a stream flows towards the Acheron River. You can follow the stream for a short nature walk.

Visit the Archaeological Site of Eleas

Around 45 minutes by car from the Souli Watermills is the Archaeological Site of Eleas. The ancient remains are found at the top of a hill, with sweeping views across the valley towards the Ionian Sea. Excavations have revealed public and private buildings and an agora (defined by its stoas) and fortifications dating from Hellenistic to Roman times. The existence of an archaeological site testifies to the penetration of ancient Greek civilisation into some of the most remote areas of Epirus.

Gastronomy tour and an old Olive Oil Factory

Your day ends at Paragaea, Parga’s first mechanical olive oil factory, where you are introduced to the steps involved in the production of extra-virgin olive oil and enjoy olive oil tasting. You learn all about the health benefits of olive oil and its connection to the culture and life of locals. The techniques include traditional cold press extraction methods as well as modern ways of producing olive oil, tracing the journey from the olive grove to bottling. Paragaea also offers wine tasting and culinary workshops, for a hands-on education in secrets behind the local cuisine and hospitality.

Visit the Ancient Theatre of Cassope

Founded in the 4th century BC, Cassope (or Kassope) was another of the major cities of the ancient Epirote League known for its well-planned grid system, public buildings and fortifications. Its theatre was built at the foot of the city’s tallest hill, oriented so that spectators could watch the comedies and tragedies of the day or attend political and civic assemblies while enjoying panoramic views over both the Ambracian Gulf and Ionian Sea. It is believed to have been built in the 3rd century BC, reflecting Hellenistic trends in architecture. Cassope appears to have been abandoned in the 1st century BC when its inhabitants were forced to move to the newly founded city of Nicopolis.

Learn about the Dance of Zalongo sacrifice

Very close to the Archaeological Site of Cassope is perhaps the most poignant historical site in Epirus. The Dance of Zalongo Viewpoint relates to the time when Ali Pasha wanted the rebellious Souliotes to evacuate their villages. In 1803, a group of women fled with their children to Mount Zalongo above Preveza, where they were trapped by enemy soldiers. Choosing death rather than surrender, they threw their children over the cliff and then followed while performing a traditional dance. A 15-20 minute climb from the carpark takes you to the spot where a monument honours their sacrifice and heroism. You can also admire the Ambracian Gulf, the Ionian Sea and the islands of Paxos, Antipaxos and Lefkada.

Enjoy a stroll around Preveza

A good place to start your walk in Preveza is the Bastion of Vrysoula, which is all that remains of the 4km long and 8m wide Moat of Preveza, constructed by Ali Pasha from 1807. Walking past the sailing boats and yachts of the Preveza Marina, you reach Odysseas Androutsos Square (named after an 1821 Revolution hero). There are shops, cafes and places to eat along the waterfront, or you can head into Preveza’s picturesque alleys and backstreets, with their little tavernas and seafood meze spots (some play rebetiko folk music). The best known are in the Seitan Pazar alleyway (also known as the Devil’s Pazar). Look out for the house and bust of Kostas Karyotakis, a poet of the 1920s who died in Preveza. As well as its Ottoman past, Preveza also has Venetian influences, seen in the clock tower of the Church of Agios Charalambos, which is a popular meeting place for locals.

Discover Preveza now

Visit the Roman Theatre of Nicopolis

A few kilometres away are the ancient remains that complete the story of the Roman occupation of these parts. To honour Apollo, whom he credited with helping him in the Battle of Actium, Octavian built facilities to revive the Games of Aktion that had been started by the Corinthians. These included a gymnasium, a stadium, two bath complexes and a theatre, as ancient games included both athletic and artistic events. The Theatre of Nicopolis was in continuous use from the 1st century BC to the 3rd century AD, attracting audiences that included the Emperor Nero. The theatre that we can admire today is the result of a renovation program during the reign of Hadrian (100-150 AD).

Go birdwatching or fishing in the Amvrakikos Wetlands

Your afternoon is spent in the Amvrakikos Wetlands National Park, an important habitat for protected plants and animals. If you visit at the right time of year, you might be lucky enough to see protected bird species like Dalmatian pelicans (the largest member of the pelican family) and flamingos. There are designated bird watching areas or you can join an organised bird watching tour. Alternatively, you can join a fishing experience on Lake Pogonitsas (about 9km from Preveza) at one of the natural fish farms of the Fishing Agricultural Cooperative of Preveza. These include an introduction to traditional fishing methods and the rare fish in the saltwater lake, as well as fish tasting. There are also boat tours in the Ambracian Gulf that set out from Preveza. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot some of the bottlenose dolphins that live in the bay.

Enjoy the beauty of Lake Ziros

From Arta, you head 8km inland to Lake Ziros, whose name testifies to the colonisation of the area by the Slavs in the Middle Ages (ozero is lake in Russian). It is a Natura 2000-protected site and wetlands area, created by volcanic activity at an altitude of 56 metres. It was a cave until its roof collapsed and is fed by underground springs. Whatever the season, you’ll find various species of birds, from ducks to hawks, as well as other animals, such as frogs, river turtles and otters. It is an ideal place for canoeing and kayaking (you can join an organised group), or you can find one of the ‘beaches’ around the lake, from where you can enjoy the scenery. There is a cafe-restaurant on the eastern shore.

Explore the Martian landscape of Kokkinopilos

An interesting excursion near Lake Ziros is to Kokkinopilos, a hilly area named after the colour of the rocks (Kokkinopilos means red clay in Greek). The different shades of red during the day give it a Mars-like aura, interspersed with patches of green. Archaeological remains from the Paleolithic Age have been found there, as well as tools from the Bronze Age believed to be up to 250,000 years old.

Admire Roman engineering at the Aqueduct of Nicopolis

Your cultural tour of Epirus ends at the nearby Aqueduct of Nicopolis, an architectural landmark of Epirus’ Roman occupation (around the 1st century AD). It diverted water from the springs of the Louros River to Nicopolis and was considered one of the great technical feats of the time, consisting of a 50-kilometre-long network. The remains of the aqueduct offer an insight into the architectural and engineering expertise of the Romans.